Watkins Glen State Park

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Description

Dark and damp, with cavernous pathways, alien-like stone formations, rare plants, and eerie isolation, Watkins Glen is the type of setting you would expect to find in a fantasy film rather than Upstate New York. Carved into the escarpment at the southern end of Seneca Lake (the deepest of the Finger Lakes), this hanging valley is the oldest and most renowned State Park in the Finger Lakes region. The park is easily divided into two sections, the deep shale and limestone glen that the park is most known for, and the upper park, which is filled with picnic, camping, and recreation facilities. 

Visitors to Watkins Glen start their journey in the lower parking lot, which is actually within the massive mouth of the glen. Here the limestone cliffs tower 200 feet above Glen Creek and the parked cars. Visible from the lot is Sentry Bridge, a CCC-era stone overpass that towers above Entrance Cascade. The first of many waterfalls and bridges within the glen, this scene is eerie; embedded between two sheer cliff-faces, half hidden, almost as if a hint about the wonders to come.

Fittingly, the 1.5 mile-long Gorge Trail starts from a dark spiraling tunnel cut into the cliff-side. It is this tunnel that effectively removes the technology, traffic, and noise of the bustling village and envelops you in a world of natural stone, calming flowing water and gentle breezes. From the first gaze upward at the surreal Glen Alpha, the (recently-raised) gate admission fee is immediately forgotten and a sense of wonder and amazement takes over. Despite walking on a manufactured pathway, through chiseled tunnels, and over mortared bridges, the Gorge Trail puts you within the glen itself, as close as one can safely get, where you will feel changes in temperature as you progress, get splashed by the refreshing waterfalls, hear the birds singing above the rim canopy, and tread carefully so as not to step on caterpillars and salamanders.

Winding up the glen, the trail leads visitors through an assortment of cliffs and abutments that can best be described as natural sculptures. Each breathtaking scene after another is unique in sight and sound, and seemingly isolated from the rest of the gorge. The trail presents each scene perfectly, as if displaying landscape paintings lined up in a row. The aptly-named Glen Cathedral widens like a gothic church, with a natural pool, dubbed the Baptismal Font, facing the "cathedral's" pulpit: a beautiful stone arch bridge and 60 ft Central Cascade. There's no surprise that over the last hundred years or so, each segment of the glen, vista, rock feature, and waterfall has been nicknamed. Continue on to the Glen of Pools, and what many consider to be the "main attraction": Rainbow Falls and Triple Cascade. Such a generic name does little justice to this majestic dreamscape. It has to be seen to be appreciated.

The Gorge Trail is what defines the park. It is why people come here year after year, and why I consider this to be one of the most photogenic spots in New York State.  It inspires artists; amazes young and old; invigorates the soul; and brings out the inner conservationist in even the most urban of us. Although small and tucked away in the heart of Upstate New York, away from busy cities and major airports, Watkins Glen is a national treasure and certainly a world-class attraction.

Outside of the glen, the park has trails along the gorge rim that offer more casual hiking experiences with more typical wooded terrain and an abundance of historical and educational markers that help to guide you through the natural and unnatural history. Abundant picnicking grounds and an Olympic-size swimming pool give families a reason stay a while longer, and for those that can't get enough, the west end of the park has a beautiful campground with restrooms, playgrounds, ball fields, and over 300 modern campsites.

The Village of Watkins Glen should not be overlooked. Steeped in racing history, this Grand Prix town hosted its first road race in 1948 on a course that wrapped around the park and actually crossed Glen Creek. Racing has since moved to its own contained course and hosts amateur and professional circuits, as well as concerts and other events. Other nearby glens, such as Excelsior and Havana, are not as grand as Watkins, but certainly worth the time to explore.

Seneca Lake is known for its wine, and the southern end near the village is packed with excellent selections. Some wineries offer casual dining, and gift shops as well. The village itself is home to several casual eateries, one particular favorite is the Seneca Harbor Station, right on the lake. Grab a  bite to eat, head over to one of the ice cream parlors for a sprinkled cone and walk along the pier at the village's waterfront park and enjoy the scenery.

History

Watkins Glen Historic Timeline - Read about exciting history of Watkins Glen, from the formation of the bedrock to the latest tourist resorts.

Watkins Glen Antique Postcard Collection

 

Flack's Scenic Guide - Watkins Glen State Park (1930s)

Guide book to Watkins Glen (Taylor, 1846). Coming soon.

Guide book to Watkins Glen (Elwood, 1867). Coming soon.

Guide book to Watkins Glen (Lytle, 1874)

Guide book to Watkins Glen (Michener, 1879). Coming soon.

Guide book to Watkins Glen (Michener, 1888). Coming soon.

Guide book to Watkins Glen (Michener, 1894). Coming soon.

Watkins Glen and Seneca Lake (Drake, 1895)

The Glen Springs (Leffingwell, 1903)

Guide book to Watkins Glen (Hope, 1916). Coming soon.

Historic Map of Watkins Glen. Coming soon.

Hiking / Trails / Exploration

Gorge Trail...............................................................................

Difficulty: Moderate to difficult.

Distance: 1.5 miles one way... make it a loop with the Indian Trail for a full 3 miles.

Markings: Signs. Stonework walkways.

Description: We are currently working on a more detailed guide.

This must-see trail is the reason why you came here, so take your time and enjoy it. We recommend starting from the bottom (Rt 14) and working your way up.

The trail will start at the Entrance Amphitheater and Entrance Tunnel, cross Sentry Bridge over Entrance Falls, and into a section called Glen Alpha. The view upstream from the bridge is often referred to as Stillwater Gorge. The trail passes Minnehaha Falls and the Heart-shaped Pool on the south side, and a set of stairs takes you up to, and behind the 50 ft plunge: Cavern Cascade.

The Spiral Tunnel will take you up in elevation into a section known as Glen Obscura, characterized by its towering jagged cliffs and narrow trail. You are now on the north side of the creek and will shortly pass Whispering Falls on your left and the Suspension Bridge above you. Pass through another tunnel and continue to Diamond Falls, named for its sharp, diamond-shaped edges. The following section is referred to as The Narrows as the space in the glen tightens and the water speed increases. Shortly, a set of steps will switch back to a path called Lover's Lane--ignore this and continue forward.

As the gorge begins to widen, you will pass Sylvan Rapids (which is more easily heard than seen from the trail) and the glen opens up to what is called Glen Cathedral. The deep pothole pool in the middle is named Baptismal Font. A large set of stairs will take you up to Folly Bridge and above the 60 ft Central Cascade.

From Folly Bridge you can see the Glen of Pools wrap around the bend. Cross over the bridge and you are now on the south end with the creek to your right. Continue onward around the bend to reveal Rainbow Falls, Triple Cascade and more pools. The trail runs right under Rainbow Falls and crosses the creek again over the first drop of Triple Cascade and continues along the north side through Shadow Gorge.

An outcropping of the cliff (the Pillar of Beauty) that has been polished by years of erosion will be on your left, across the creek. This marks the beginning of Glen Arcadia, a darker and tamer section of the glen. If water flow is high, you may notice a small sprinkle from overhead by an unnamed waterfall that drips from above. Shortly after, Pluto Falls will be in a wavy section of stream bed on your left. Climb some steps and view the Pool of Nymphs, a series of tiny cascades and pothole pools complemented by massive fractures in the bedrock.

Mile Point Bridge, over Arcadia Falls, is the junction between the Gorge Trail, Indian Trail (along the north rim) and the Finger Lakes Trail (along the south rim). Don't cross it. Continue forward to the Glen Facility section. Here the stream calms and levels out while the path widens (known as Lover's Ramble). There's not much to the creek at this point, so continue on until you reach the base of Jacobs Ladder, a massive set of steps that will get you to the top of the gorge. From the base you can also see the Rail Bridge and an old concrete trestle from a previous bridge that was destroyed by flood.

Climb up and to the snack bar to the right... behind the snack bar is Indian Trail. Or you can wait for the shuttle to take you back. It runs every 15-20 minutes.

Maps: Trail map (pdf)

Indian Trail...............................................................................

Difficulty: Easy.

Distance: 1.5 miles one way... make it a loop with the Gorge Trail for a full 3 miles.

Markings: Signs. Some stonework walkways.

Description: We are currently working on a more detailed guide.

We recommend the Indian Trail as a way to get back to the Entrance Amphitheater rather than taking the Gorge Trail in reverse. You can start looping back on the Indian Trail at Mile Point Bridge if you prefer a less strenuous climb up the gorge. Although, the recommended route is to scale Jacob's Ladder at the end of the Gorge Trail and head towards the snack bar/souvenir shop. Just beyond the shop you will see the trailhead for Indian Trail, which runs along the north rim of the glen. It is supposedly named "Indian" as it was a Seneca hunting trail prior to white proprietors building their own trails within the glen.

About half of the trail is uneventful over packed earth, with few roots and rocks as obstacles. There are some gradients, but nothing too strenuous. About half-way through you will come across Rainbow Overlook which gives you a view of the upper half of Rainbow Falls as it cascades down a steep mossy gradient before it drips over the Gorge Trail. The next stop is Central Cascade Overlook which serves a bird's eye view of Folly Bridge and Central Cascade.

The trail runs along St. Mary's and Glenwood Cemeteries with a small wooden rail between you and the cemetery property, which gives an unobstructed view. Feel free to explore the cemetery grounds. A two story Winter Crypt, that was used to house the dead in the winter months (the ground being too frozen to dig by hand), still stands. Of particular interest is the Glenwood portion, furthest east, as it was the first major cemetery in Watkins Glen and has stones dating as early as 1840s. A Trail Shelter stands just along the trail just after the cemeteries.

Continue on as the trail veers towards the Suspension Bridge (originally constructed in 1873). Here a junction will lead through an offshoot called Lover's Lane, which offers little more than a secluded path to the Gorge Trail. Cross the bridge (85 ft above Glen Obscura) to the south end of the glen. Veer left past Lily Pond and the site of the old Glen Mountain House to get to Couch's Staircase. Take the stairs down to get to the Gorge Trail at Glen Alpha. Head across Sentry Bridge and through the tunnel to the parking area.

Maps: Trail map (pdf)

Finger Lakes Trail /South Rim Trail.............................

Difficulty: Easy - Moderate

Distance: 4.5 miles one way.

Markings: White blazes.

Description: We are currently working on a more detailed guide.

This segment of the 900 mile Finger Lakes Trail runs along the South Rim of the glen, from Frankin St., just outside of the Entrance Amphitheater, past the South Pavilion, Campgrounds, Rail Bridge, Punchbowl Lake, all the way to the section of the park occupied by Hidden Valley 4H Camp. 

Maps: Trail map (pdf)

Photography tips

Wide angle — bring that wide angle lens. Some spots are tight and you may not have room to back up. A wide angle will also help include the grand limestone cliffs and capture the expanse of the gorge.

Wake up — Get to the glen as soon as it opens, to beat both the tourists, and the light penetrating the glen canopy.

Be creative — Watkins Glen's most familiar scenes are familiar because they have been depicted the same way millions of times. Try capturing them in a new way... wider... closer...odd angles... upside down? Experiment!

Rainbows — Want to capture a rainbow in Rainbow Falls? Easy! Remove that polarizing filter and wait for the sun to penetrate the glen and shine on the falls. The best spot is to stand just past the falls, closer to the steps leading to the bridge, and look back. Careful, your camera could get wet here.

Reverse — Photographers visiting the glen their second time should walk the Gorge Trail in reverse to spot angles and scenes most camera-carriers ignore.

Links of Interest

Camping
Book a campsite at this park
Hidden Valley 4H Camp

History
Watkins Glen Historic Timeline
The history of Hidden Valley Camp (PDF)

Around Town
Watkins Glen Chamber of Commerce

Geology
Finger Lakes Geology

Media
Virtual tour of the Park

Racing
Watkins Glen International

Who to Contact

Watkins Glen State Park
P.O. Box 304
Watkins Glen, NY 14891
Phone: (607) 535-4511
Web: nysparks.state.ny.us/parks/142/details.aspx